The Owl Journal

Hey everybody, this is John with Owl. I want to do a quick tutorial about the rear plate, or plastic step, on the back of your Revel. Often, when these vans are built, you can get little plates of metal back there that can rust. This isn't specific to the Revel; it's something you should check on all Sprinter vans. I'll show you how to remove this plate and clean it if needed. 1. Removing Plastic Covers You’ll find small areas holding screws. Use a Flathead screwdriver or a small pick tool to pop these plastic covers off. Be careful, as they can fly off. You’ll need to remove these covers and continue along, popping them out. It’s helpful to have pliers, though I don’t have mine with me right now. 2. Removing Factory Spare For those who don't know, there are two holes to lower the basket holding the factory spare. These are for the two 19-mm bolts. You might find additional screws under the floor mat holding down the back of the van that need to be removed. 3. Removing Rear Screen There are a few screws on the back screens that need to be removed as well. Once those are out, you can remove the screen. Be careful as you might break a couple of snaps, but that's okay. Now, look at the metal underneath. As I mentioned, little bits of metal can get deposited back here during the van's construction, creating opportunities for rust. This isn’t too bad compared to most vans I've seen, but it's still worth pulling this off and cleaning it. It takes about 5 minutes. Take a screwdriver and run it along the rubber edge to dig out any metal. This helps to clean the area thoroughly. 4. Removing Rust For rust removal, I recommend using Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer, one of my favorite products. Spray it on the spots where rust has started to form, especially in the corners. This product transforms and neutralizes the rust. Since this will be under the black plate, it won’t be visible. After spraying, make sure to wipe off any excess product that got on surrounding areas. 5. Reassembly With most of the rust taken care of, reassembly is just the reverse of the removal process. Although it was a bit tricky to reinstall the plastic piece, it required levering the backside in first, getting it under the plywood, and then snapping it into place with a flathead screwdriver. The middle part has a long post that you need to align carefully. It was a bit fiddly, but I managed to snap it all back in place. Then, you need to drop the plastic bolts back in with the tabs facing the rear of the van. Finally, snap the other pieces back into place. Now you have the peace of mind knowing there’s no rust under your rear trim. Hope this helps! FULL VIDEO Remember, if you have any questions, we have our van experts standing by at all times. Give us a call at (866) 695-8267 and we'll be happy to help you. No call centers, no out of state representatives - just our van experts at our HQ in Arizona.More soon,John Willenborg

If you’re serious about adventure travel—exploring remote trails, discovering new camp spots, or working from your van in the wild—reliable connectivity can be a game-changer. Whether it’s keeping in touch with family, coordinating logistics, or enabling emergency access, staying connected is as essential as your tires or suspension. Let’s break down the best off-grid communication solutions for van lifers, overlanders, and anyone who seeks true adventure, using the technical insights and field-tested advice from Owl experts. Why Off-Grid Connectivity Matters for Van Life and Overlanding For those pushing boundaries off the beaten path, lacking a connection isn’t just about missing a social update—it’s about safety, logistics, and maximizing your adventures. Here are the core reasons off-grid connectivity should be a top priority for every serious van owner: Emergency Access: When something goes sideways, you want more than just hope for a passing traveler. Satellite-enabled devices are the true lifelines in dead zones. Work-Life Balance: Zoom calls, responding to urgent emails, or Facetiming family from the backcountry—off-grid internet lets you work remotely without compromise. Navigation & Information: Updating maps on the fly, finding new routes, or researching repairs when the unexpected happens—connectivity makes you more self-reliant. Peace of Mind: Even hardcore off-roaders appreciate the ability to check in with loved ones when circumstances demand. It’s not about being tethered to civilization; it’s about autonomy, resilience, and preparedness. Key Off-Grid Connectivity Solutions: Pros, Cons, and Field Notes Let’s get straight to the tech that’s redefining the off-road experience in the real world. We’ve field-tested each method—here’s what delivers, and for whom. 1. Apple iPhone 14+ Satellite Emergency (for iOS users) Best for: Lightweight, built-in emergency backupHow it works: iPhone 14 and newer can link directly to satellites for emergency messaging when outside cell coverage—no big antenna needed. Highlights: Integrated into your iPhone (no extra device) Easy interface; uses your body as antenna for a connection Free for first two years (Apple then charges) Limitations: Emergency use only—no web browsing or calls Owl's Insight: This is a solid safety net, but not a work or entertainment solution. 2. Garmin inReach (Satellite Messenger) Best for: Text-based emergency and location check-ins, lightweight expeditionsHow it works: Compact, rugged device with a stubby antenna links to global satellite networks for texting regardless of cell signal. Pros: True global coverage—works anywhere with sky visibility Text communication (not voice or full internet) Breadcrumbs, mapping, topography for hikes or missions Relatively affordable hardware and subscriptions (around $15–$20/month) Cons: No voice—or internet—just messaging Subscription required Owl's Insight: The Garmin inReach is ideal for trail scouting and solo explorers—dependable and light. 3. Garmin Tread (All-in-One Off-Road Navigator + Satellite Comms) Best for: Full-featured navigation with built-in satellite SOSHow it works: 11" touchscreen combines advanced off-road maps, topographical navigation, and the satellite communication of inReach in a single rugged unit. Pros: Built-in satellite texting/SOS plus robust GPS navigation Off-road trail databases, topographies, and campsite info Excellent for multi-vehicle caravans or complex trail networks Cons: Higher upfront cost Not a full web connection; texting only Owl's Insight: When you want brains and backup in one dashboard-mounted package, Tread is an overland favorite. 4. weBoost Drive Reach OTR (Cell Signal Booster) Best for: Amplifying weak signals near cell towers (not true off-grid)How it works: Roof-mounted antenna captures faint cellular signals, amplifies them inside your van for calls and data. Pros: Effective in remote areas with a bar or two of signal No monthly subscription Works for major U.S. carriers (Verizon, AT&T, T-Mobile) Can be professionally installed by Owl Vans for optimal performance Cons: Requires some existing cell signal—useless in true dead zones Not a replacement for satellite tech Owl's Insight: Think of this as your “last mile” amplifier. When you’re on the fringe of civilization, weBoost keeps you on the grid just a little longer. 5. Starlink In-Motion (Mobile Satellite Internet) Best for: Full-featured, high-speed internet anywhere—work, streaming, cloud uploadsHow it works: Flat-mount dish on your van auto-links to Starlink satellites, providing genuine broadband internet even while driving. Pros: True high-speed internet: work, stream, upload in 4K—even mid-desert Works on the move (passengers can surf, drivers use updated GPS) Wi-Fi calling enables phone/text services outside cell coverage Works globally (clear sky required) Cons: Expensive hardware ($2,500+ for in-motion dish; $135–$150/month service) Requires AC power (inverter) or 12V conversion; installation recommended Power draw is reasonable, but consider your van’s electrical capacity Owl's Insight: If you demand seamless connectivity, Starlink is the “Ferrari” of off-grid internet—and worth every penny for digital nomads and serious adventurers. Installation and Power: Plan for Integration Any serious off-grid connectivity system needs to be: Securely and waterproof-installed: Especially antennas and dishes—choose professionals who understand van builds. Wired into your 12V or inverter system: Starlink needs AC or 12V conversion. Plan for the additional draw on your batteries. Easily accessible: Devices like inReach or Tread should be mounted within reach for emergencies. Professionally integrated: At Owl Vans, we routinely install these systems—ensuring reliable operation, clean cable runs, and seamless interface with your van’s build. Choosing Your Ideal Off-Grid Setup The best setup? For most van owners aiming for versatility: Always carry a personal satellite communicator (inReach or Tread) for backup safety. Install a quality cell booster (weBoost Drive Reach OTR) for semi-rural adventures. If you work remotely, stream, or always want the option: Invest in Starlink. Each system complements the other—layer your options for resiliency. Equip Your Adventure, Wherever the Road Leads Safety and freedom go hand in hand. The right off-grid connectivity solution empowers you to work, explore, and respond to emergencies with confidence. Owl is your expert resource—whether you need integrated installation, power system upgrades, or advice on the best products for your build.

If you've spent any time wrenching on your van, you know that sometimes the simplest tricks make the biggest difference. Let’s say you want to run a zip tie through a hole and have it come out on the other side. The problem is, you can't reach behind there or get in there. So, how are you going to do it? This is one of our favorite little hacks—using a basic zip tie in a not-so-basic way. Whether you're dealing with a Sherpa plate or any tight, hard-to-reach space, this “zip tie fishing” technique will come in handy more often than you think.  Zip Tie Trick Full Video Zip Tie Trick Step-by-Step Instructions Take another zip tie and make a loop. Insert this loop into the bottom hole and extend it backward. Then, stick your zip tie through the loop and pull. As I pull the zip tie, it won't come out because it's caught in the loop. Let’s get a closer look at this: You can see the zip tie now. As I pull up on it, you’ll notice the tip starts to come through the hole. Pull slowly until the tip of the zip tie pops through. Then, pull and push down again, and the zip tie feeds through completely. And there you have it! The zip tie is fished through the hole. It’s as easy as using two zip ties. Remember, if you have any questions, our van experts are standing by at all times. Call us at (866) 695-8267, and we'll be happy to help. No call centers, no out-of-state representatives - just our van experts at our HQ in Arizona.

Hey everybody, John here with Owl, and today we're here with Mark who is going to show us why it's so important to check the underside of your van. Sprinter Vans are shockingly good off-road, but like any off-road vehicle, you need to protect some of the critical components that can be damaged on the trail. When we go over rocks and other obstacles, low-hanging components can be damaged and leave us stranded on the trail. Protection of key components should always be addressed before you hit the trail. In this video, we had a customer with a blowout bottom shock bracket from contacting a rock while off-roading. Mark just brought in his van. Check it out; it's equipped with an Owl ladder and some Mojo wheels. Mark, came in because he took his van off-road, and hit the rear axle on some rocks, which bent the rear shock brackets. This is incredibly common when off roading and something that can total your van if not treated. So, Van Compass has what they call a Baja bracket. They have like Baja and Baja S brackets. Let me show you why you want these on your van when you’re off-roading. As you can see, when you’re off-roading, things get hit. Mark was wise enough to already have the differential cover on, so that got protected. But look at this! The bracket is completely folded over. If you hit a rock with that, the bracket is done for. It's almost completely snapped off the axle. It’s going to need to be bent back into place, and then we’ll need to install the support bracket—the Baja or Baja S bracket—from Van Compass to protect it. The support bracket fixes the problem. Alright, so we’ve seen the bent bottom shock bracket on Mark’s van. Now let’s look at a brand new van and show you what it’s supposed to look like when it’s not damaged. Here, you can see how straight it is. See how straight the shock is? It goes straight up as opposed to way crooked. Point is - check the bottom of your van! If it looks something like that... get it in right away to be looked at. The Baja Bracket will prevent this problem! Hope that helps. FULL VIDEO Remember, if you have any questions, we have our van experts standing by at all times. Give us a call at (866) 695-8267 and we'll be happy to help you. No call centers, no out of state representatives - just our van experts at our HQ in Arizona.More soon,John Willenborg

Hello everyone, John here with Owl, and in this video, we want to answer one of the questions we get most frequently from you: "Why should I put my spare tire on the back door instead of underneath where it is from the factory?" Well, if you're planning to stay on pavement all the time and don't want to explore beautiful trails like the one I'm on right now, and maybe even deliver packages for Amazon, then it's fine to keep your tire underneath. If you stay on paved roads, it’s not a big deal. But... REASON #1: (Easily) Carry a Full Size Spare Tire If you go off-roading and want to get off the beaten path like many of us do with our adventure vans, you're going to want to carry a full-size spare tire. Now, can you fit a full-size spare underneath? You can, with adaptation kits and so on, but getting the tire in while you’re in your driveway is one thing; getting it out when you have a flat is another. When you're out on the trail, you're probably going to lower your tire pressures, which increases the chance of one of those tires coming off the bead. If you don’t know what a bead is, it's the part inside the tire that interfaces with the lip of the wheel, ensuring they are airtight. If the bead pops off, your tire isn't destroyed, but it can be very hard to set it up again on the trail. So, you want easy access to a full-size spare.... and you get exactly that with a Tire Carrier that unscrews in (quite literally) 30 seconds. REASON #2: Don't Get Stuck on Bad Road (Important!) Why can't you keep it underneath? Here’s the problem: look at this terrain. Does it look like your driveway? See how crowned it is? There's a reason for a differential skid right there. Notice the limited ground clearance. It might not seem like much, but in reality, there's about two inches between the differential and the dirt. This dirt is also muddy because it rained last night, so the last thing I want to do is crawl under there to get the tire out. The real problem is, if I drop that cage right now, I can't get the tire out. The only other option is to jack the vehicle up, but on uneven terrain, your jack will likely sink into the mud, making the vehicle unstable to crawl under. I would never do it. So, to finally answer the question: can you keep it underneath? Yes, but you risk not being able to open the cage. REASON #3: Your Spare Tire Could Pop! Additionally, if you're on a rocky trail, rocks can puncture the sidewall of the spare, and you might not know it until you need it! These are a few reasons why we believe it's important to put your tire on an expedition tire carrier or ladder tire carrier. It keeps you safe on the trails and provides some insurance when you're off the beaten path. Hopefully, that answers some of the questions for those wondering why we do it. It’s not just for looks. FULL VIDEO Remember, if you have any questions, we have our van experts standing by at all times. Give us a call at (866) 695-8267 and we'll be happy to help you. No call centers, no out of state representatives - just our van experts at our HQ in Arizona.More soon,John Willenborg

Hey everybody, John with Owl here. Today, we're going to talk about slider tracks. On my van, the slider track was originally black and motorized, but it was later replaced with a stainless steel, non-motorized version. I've painted these tracks in the past with great results. Personally, I prefer black over chrome, especially since the rest of my van has a matte black theme. This will look much better once it's black, as it's currently the only brushed stainless piece on the van. This van is kept near the beach, and I’ve noticed rust forming under the carriage and on some factory bolts in the engine bay. Even the stainless steel slider is starting to corrode. This isn't unique to Mercedes; any vehicle exposed to saltwater or road salt will rust. Preventative maintenance is key, so we're going to paint this track with a rust reformer to improve its appearance and prevent further corrosion. STEP 1: First, I'm going to grab some blue tape. Ideally, you would remove the track to paint it, but that requires removing the van's interior, which is a lot of work. Taping it off is a simpler alternative and has worked well for us before. Proper preparation is crucial: take your time with taping, scuff the surface before painting, and keep some rubbing alcohol on hand to clean up any overspray quickly. I'm now taping off the area around the slider track. It's important to cover a larger area than you think necessary to avoid getting paint on the van. I'm using cardboard and tape to create a protective barrier. STEP 2: Once taped, I'll clean the surface with alcohol and scuff it with a sanding block. STEP 3: After cleaning and sanding, I'll use Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer. This paint dries quickly, transforms corroded metal, and is readily available. It holds up well and is easy to reapply if needed. STEP 4: When painting, use light, continuous strokes and avoid painting on windy days. Once dry, remove the tape and coverings carefully to check for any overspray. If there is any, use alcohol to clean it off immediately. The finished product looks much better. The black paint gives it a clean, matte finish that blends with the rest of the van. I hope this video was helpful, whether you're painting a slider track or tackling another project on your van. Preparation is key to a good paint job.   Full Video Here: Remember, if you have any questions, we have our van experts standing by at all times. Give us a call at (866) 695-8267 and we'll be happy to help you. No call centers, no out of state representatives - just our van experts at our HQ in Arizona.More soon,John Willenborg

If you’re serious about venturing off the beaten path in you van, it’s time to move beyond the flashy bolt-ons and focus on upgrades that radically improve capability, reliability, and comfort. These are the five upgrades every Sprinter Van owner should prioritize if they want to maximize off-road performance and minimize headaches. 1. Extended Range Fuel Tank: More Miles, Fewer Worries Sprinter Fuel Tank : Long Range - 45/47 Gallon Sprinter Fuel Tank : Long Range - 40 Gallon   Why It’s Critical:Stock Sprinter fuel tanks are notoriously undersized for true adventure. Whether you’re carving through remote desert roads or tackling mountain passes, range anxiety is the last thing you want. An extended tank ensures you cover more ground—and have the diesel heat you need for off-grid nights—without constantly scouting for fuel stations. Expert Insight from the Field:“These vans are heavy, and when you add build-outs, fuel goes quick. The heater runs off the main tank, too—run low and you risk warmth and range. With a 42-gallon (or up to 45-gallon) extended tank, you’ve got real off-grid staying power,” explains John from the field in Moab. Benefits: Up to 45-gallon capacity (model-dependent) Maintains OEM fitment—longer but doesn’t intrude on storage or ground clearance Essential for long trips and winter camping When to Upgrade:If you plan to travel in remote areas, chase winter storms, or just want peace of mind, this is the first mod we recommend. 2. Upgraded Suspension: Ride Quality and Stability Why It Matters:Once your Sprinter is loaded with gear, water, and goodies, factory suspension just can’t keep pace. Stock setups are under-sprung with insufficient shock reservoir volume. The result? Bottoming out on bump stops, excessive body roll, and a seriously unsettled ride—especially off-road or in crosswinds. Owl's Real-World Upgrade:We recommend advanced, adjustable shock absorbers (like Van Compass Falcon piggyback reservoir shocks) plus extra spring rate in the rear—either via an add-a-leaf or full replacement pack. Key Takeaways: Smoother ride, reduced sway, and safer handling on tarmac and trail Adjustable for on-road comfort or off-road control Keeps shock fluid cool, even on gnarly washboard roads Bonus:The right suspension upgrade is transformational. Seasoned van lifers agree: After upgrading, they’d never go back to stock. 3. Performance Tuning: Unleash The Engine RennTech Sprinter Engine Tuner   Why It Matters:All that weight from your build-out makes the factory engine feel underwhelming—especially at altitude or on steep grades. With a performance tune (like the Renntech module), you’ll unlock extra horsepower and torque safely, optimizing boost for a more responsive, capable van. In-the-Field Perspective:“After the tune, mountain passes loaded down at high elevation just aren’t an issue. The difference is night and day,” John notes. Features: Fast installation via OBD-II port Noticeably better acceleration and drivability Ideal for adventure rigs that see real elevation changes 4. Exterior Storage Solutions: Keep the Interior Tidy Why Storage Upgrades Rock:Inside your van, space is at a premium. Once you’ve installed a kitchen, shower, bed, and gear, clutter piles up fast. Exterior storage like the Owl's Monster Box lets you stow dirty, bulky, or heavy items—leveling blocks, recovery gear, jacks, or muddy boots—where they belong: outside. Why It’s a Must: Frees up precious interior space for essentials like food and clothes Dedicated storage for items you don’t want dirtying up your living space Modular hinge-mount options retain rear door function Insider Tip:Tire relocation to a rear carrier is also vital—protects your spare, especially off-road where an under-mounted tire is easily damaged. 5. Skid Plates: Cheap Insurance for Costly Components Sprinter 3500 Skid Plate : Differential (2015+)   Don’t Overlook Protection:Vans may be robust, but their underbodies are vulnerable. Differential housings in particular hang low and are exposed to sharp rocks and obstacles. A single bad hit can rupture your diff cover, spilling fluid and leaving you stranded miles from help. Key Benefits: Differential skid plates (like Owl’s blue-painted diff skids) prevent catastrophic damage from rock strikes or improper jacking Additional underbody skids can protect fuel tanks, transfer cases, and other vital components Why Upgrade Now?Remote travel means help is far away. Skid plates are a small investment that pays off the first time you need them—and might save your trip. Expert Summary: Invest Where It Counts Forget the bling—start with the essentials. The upgrades above are born from real-world experience, not marketing hype. Each one not only enhances your van’s capability but also your enjoyment and safety far from pavement. To recap, every adventure-ready Sprinter Van needs: An extended fuel tank for range and peace of mind Upgraded suspension for ride and handling loaded or unloaded Engine tuning to keep pace with the extra weight Thoughtfully integrated exterior storage for gear and recovery essentials Tough protection with diff and underbody skid plates At Owl, we don’t just sell products; we design, build, and test them in the wild. You can trust that every solution is field-proven and engineered for real off-road adventure. Upgrade your adventure. Trust the experts. Choose Owl.

If you’re serious about adventure, chances are your Sprinter van is more than just a vehicle—it’s your ticket to the unknown, your home base, and your workhorse in the wild. But the truth is, the more you demand from your Sprinter, the more you’ll need to outsmart the costly pitfalls that can end a trip—fast. Here’s your expert playbook for keeping your Sprinter’s repair bills in check, so you’re always ready for what’s next. 1. Be Proactive with Windshield Chips If you’ve spent any time behind the wheel of a Sprinter, you know the front glass is a magnet for rock chips. It’s almost uncanny—Sprinter windshields seem to invite dings, especially on adventures off the beaten path. Why This Matters: A chip can turn into a crack in minutes, especially with the vibration and temperature fluctuations that come with overland travel. Modern Sprinters require sensor recalibration after windshield replacement—add to that the cost and downtime, and you’re suddenly off the road. Your Move: Carry a Rain-X or similar windshield repair kit. The difference between a $15 kit and a $1,500+ windshield replacement (not to mention insurance headaches) often comes down to speed. If you notice a chip, pull over safely and fix it immediately—don’t wait, or it could spider across the glass before you get to the next exit. Stay Sharp: Practice using your repair kit. Watch tutorials or keep an eye out for upcoming guides from Owl Vans. 2. Prevent Diesel Gelling—Protect Your Fuel and Your Adventure Cold weather is prime time for diesel fuel to “gel,” leaving your Sprinter stranded and inviting a recovery bill that will ruin your weekend (and maybe your wallet). Key Considerations: Diesel can gel at temps below 15°F (-12°C). Gelled fuel means your van will not run. Period. It can happen both in the tank and in the fuel lines. Your Move: Pack Diesel 911 or another anti-gel additive. Before any winter or high-altitude trip, add a bottle to your fuel. It’s cheap insurance: a simple prep step that keeps you mobile while others are stuck waiting for a tow. Stow it Properly: Toss it in your Owl Vans rear box so it’s always on hand. 3. Outsmart Rodents Before They Total Your Wiring If your Sprinter sits for any length of time, especially in urban or wooded areas, rodents are a real and present threat. Wiring harnesses in modern vans are coated with materials that actually entice gnawing critters. Why It’s Mission-Critical: A chewed wiring harness can total a modern van—repairs can involve stripping the interior, serious downtime, and astronomical labor costs. Your Move: Install ultrasonic rodent repellers under the hood. These devices are battery-powered, easy to zip-tie near vulnerable wiring, and create an environment rodents hate. Other tricks: Peppermint oil, mothballs, or parking in rodent-unfriendly zones, but ultrasonic repellers are reliable and hands-off. Check batteries occasionally; replace as needed. 4. Protect Your Differential—Know the Jack Point Trap Most shops know to jack a truck from the differential—except on a Mercedes Sprinter, where the differential cover sticks out slightly. One wrong move and you or your mechanic can collapse the cover, lose diff fluid, and suffer damage that could easily require a trail recovery. Insider Tips: Never jack your Sprinter from the differential cover. The factory design is weaker than most vehicles, and a bent cover means leaks and possible internal damage. Be clear with tire shops and general mechanics—insist on using the recommended jack points. Upgrade for Peace of Mind: Install a diff skid plate. At Owl, we offer diff skids precisely for this reason—they’re inexpensive, robust, and save you a world of pain if you (or a shop tech) slip up. Routine: On your next oil change, show your mechanic where the jack should (and should not) go. A two-minute conversation could save thousands. 5. Stop Rear Shock Bolt Catastrophe with a Double Shear Bracket This tip could mean the difference between pushing on toward your next summit and ending your trip with a snapped shock bolt deep in the wilderness. The Weak Link: Sprinter rear shock upper bolts are single shear from the factory—a design never intended for aggressive off-road loads. Over time, the bolt works against the mounting tab, especially if the suspension is upgraded or the van is loaded heavy. If the bolt breaks, it usually shears off inside the unibody—a nightmare extraction job. Your Move: Mark the upper shock bolts with a paint pen. Draw a line on the bolt and onto the frame to quickly check if it has loosened—a simple glance tells you if something’s moving that shouldn’t. Upgrade to a double shear bracket (Baja Bracket). This reinforcement supports the bolt on both sides, virtually eliminating the risk of catastrophic failure, no matter how hard you push your van. Our Baja Bracket kits are engineered for adventure-grade endurance and easy monitoring (with spots for paint-pen indicators). Do It Regardless: Even if you haven’t upgraded your suspension yet, this should be considered mandatory for overlanding Sprinters. Final Thoughts: Invest in Know-How, Not Repairs Every one of these fixes is born from hard-earned trail experience. When you treat your Sprinter like an adventure rig, using it well outside its original design parameters, don’t just hope for the best—armor up and outthink the gremlins. The five steps above don’t just save you money—they keep you in the wild and out of repair shops.