Van 101

When you’re building your dream adventure rig, one of the first questions you’ll face: Sprinter 144 or 170? The decision isn’t just about a few extra inches—it’s about off-road capability, daily drivability, and how you’ll use every square inch of space. So let’s break down the real-world differences—without the fluff—to help you choose the perfect platform for your next journey. Understanding the Core Differences: Sprinter 144 vs 170 Mercedes-Benz offers the Sprinter van in three wheelbase lengths: 144-inch 170-inch 170-inch Extended But for most adventure-focused builds, the debate centers around the two most popular options: the nimble 144 and the ultra-spacious 170. Here’s what sets them apart where it matters most. Space Matters—But How Much? Interior Room: The 170 offers noticeably more living and storage space. For those bringing the whole family (think: two adults, two kids, pets, and gear), the 170 becomes a true rolling basecamp. In contrast, the 144 shines for one or two adults, or a couple with a small child. Flares: On a 144, flares (like those from Winnebago or Flarespace) are almost mandatory to rotate the bed for transverse sleeping. In a 170, the bed can typically run front-to-back—meaning you may save on flare installation, but aren’t maximizing the space as efficiently. “Two and a Half People” Rule: If your adventure crew consistently includes more than two adults or small children, the additional length of the 170 pays off. For solo travelers or couples, the 144 often delivers plenty of space without the bulk. Off-Road Capability: Where the Short Wheelbase Wins This is where technical facts matter. The biggest advantages of the 144 come into play the moment you leave pavement. Breakover Angle: The 144, with a shorter wheelbase, easily crests obstacles and uneven terrain where a 170’s longer undercarriage could belly out. Departure Angle: The 170’s longer rear overhang not only looks imposing, it means you’ll hit or drag the bumper on sharp hill transitions more often. The 170 Extended exacerbates this—not recommended at all for true off-roading. Single vs. Dual Rear Wheels: Most 144s (and some 170s) are single rear wheel. This is crucial for off-road traction, lighter curb weight, and squeezing through tight trails. Dual rear wheel (dually) configurations—common on 3500s—eat up interior space, complicate tire pressure adjustments, and become a magnet for wedged rocks that could puncture a tire. Quick Technical Recap: Go 144 if: Your adventures prioritize technical trails, steep breakovers, tight switchbacks, city stealth, or easy parking. Go 170 if: You want more cabin room, are mostly on maintained roads/gravel, prioritize comfort/capacity, or have a larger adventure crew. Urban Versatility & Stealth Camping Adventure doesn’t always live off a dirt road; sometimes it’s navigating city streets after a long trail or squeezing into high-traffic National Park parking lots. 144 Pros: City-friendly. Feels more like an oversized SUV than a full-on RV. Easier to parallel park and stealth camp in urban environments. Blends in—a big perk if your HOA or street parking situation is touchy. 170 Cons: Struggles in downtown environments and tight campsites. Attracts more attention; may violate HOA rules or parking regulations in some neighborhoods. The Case Against Dual Rear Wheels (Duallys) Let’s get technical: dual rear wheels once solved real problems—tires used to blow out under heavy loads. In modern adventure vans (usually under 10,000 lbs), today’s tires easily meet load ratings with singles, making duallys mostly unnecessary. Drawbacks of Duallys: Reduced off-road traction. Rocks wedge between the duals, leading to possible tire damage. Harder to manage tire pressures—important for sand, mud, and trail work. Compromised interior width in the rear (wheel arches intrude). Unless you’re hauling massive loads for commercial builds, the single rear wheel setup is king for true backroad travel. (If you’re stuck with a dually, don’t panic—but if buying new, choose single rear wheels for adventure). Real-World Scenarios: Which Sprinter Size Fits Your Adventure? Choose the 144 If You: Hit technical 4x4 trails. Need to park in standard city lots frequently. Want versatile “stealth” options. Travel solo or as a couple (or with a small child). Choose the 170 If You: Bring the family (2 adults, 2+ kids). Need maximum gear and sleeping capacity. Prioritize long-term comfort and interior amenities. Rarely push the limits of technical off-road trails. Conclusion: Your Adventure, Dialed. Choose Wisely. Choosing between the Sprinter 144 and 170 isn’t just about length—it’s about your adventure style, crew, and how you’ll push your limits. The 144 shines for agility and technical trails; the 170 rules for comfort and cargo. Know your priorities, and you’ll craft a van that’s unbeatable on-road and off.

When you’re exploring beyond the pavement—navigating rocky trails, tackling washboard roads, or carving out the perfect campsite miles from civilization—your Sprinter van’s suspension isn’t just a mechanical detail. It’s your lifeline to comfort, capability, and control. At Owl, we’ve lived the adventure, and we know: factory suspension setups simply aren’t built for the demands of a fully loaded adventure rig. In this deep dive, we’ll break down Sprinter suspension basics, detail common upgrades, and give you the technical edge to transform your van into a truly dialed adventure machine. Why Suspension Matters—And Why Factory Isn’t Enough Clients often ask: “Why can’t I just bolt on stiffer shocks? Or a bigger sway bar? Do I really need to overhaul my whole suspension?” The short answer: If you want your loaded Sprinter to drive, corner, and perform well both on and off road, you need a holistic suspension strategy. From the Factory: Sprinter vans off the showroom floor are tuned for empty cargo—the “test drive” experience. That means soft springs and dampers, optimized for a light, unloaded vehicle. Pack in adventure gear, water, bikes, a rooftop tent, or build out a living space, and you’re adding thousands of pounds. That stock suspension collapses under the load, degrading ride quality, handling, and component lifespan. You might notice your van riding on the bump stops, a telltale sign that the spring rate is overwhelmed. That stone-skipping, head-tossing sensation? The stock suspension is done. Anatomy of Sprinter Suspension: Springs, Shocks, Sway Bars Let’s get technical. Whether you’re running an empty cargo hauler or a 9,000-pound rolling cabin, you need to understand what each suspension piece does. 1. Springs—The Backbone of Suspension Springs (leaf or coil) support the weight of your van. They suspend the body over the axles and are the main factor in ride height, load-carrying, and initial bump absorption. Factory Issue: Stock springs are designed for minimal weight. Overload them (think Revel, Storyteller, or custom builds), and you lose ride height, suspension travel, and basic comfort. Result: A van that crashes into its bump stops, rocks side-to-side, and feels unsettled on uneven terrain. Pro Solution:Upgrading to a spring set properly matched to your build weight restores correct ride height and allows the suspension to actually work—critical for both on-highway stability and off-road articulation. At Owl Vans, we recommend this as your true first step. 2. Shocks—Controlling Motion, Not Carrying Weight Shocks (dampers) don’t hold up your van. They control the speed at which springs compress and decompress, preventing bouncing, wallowing, or instability over bumps or broken pavement. How Shocks Work: Picture a French press. Shocks force hydraulic fluid through small channels and valves, dissipating energy and smoothing out chassis movement. Adjustable models (like the Falcon piggyback shocks) let you tune for on-road firmness or off-road comfort at the turn of a knob. Why It Matters: Without quality shocks, your van bounces, oscillates, and loses tire contact—bad news for handling and traction. On sustained rough terrain (washboard, rocky trails), stock single-tube shocks overheat fast, reducing performance. Pro Solution:Upgrade to high-performance, adjustable dampers with remote or piggyback reservoirs. These increase fluid volume (run cooler), handle sustained abuse, and tune to match your adventure—firm for long highway runs, soft for trail crawling. 3. Sway Bars—Stability Where You Need It Sway bars connect the left and right sides of the suspension. Their job: control body roll in corners and high winds. On-Road: A larger sway bar keeps your high-roof, high-center-of-gravity van flat and stable during turns or gusty conditions. Off-Road: Too much sway bar reduces articulation (wheels can’t move independently), hurting traction and comfort on rough, uneven ground. Best Practice: For “dual-mode” vans, consider aftermarket sway bars with quick disconnect options. Enjoy the stability on pavement, then free up your articulation for the trails. Common Upgrade Paths for Adventure Builds Here’s how to prioritize your upgrades for a build-out or heavily loaded Sprinter: Springs First:If your van sits low in the back or rides harshly on the bump stops, upgrade your spring rate to match your build’s actual weight. Shocks Next:Install quality adjustable shocks with increased oil capacity. Look for features like remote or piggyback reservoirs for better heat management on rough roads. Sway Bar Upgrades:For road-focused drivers, a beefy sway bar improves handling. For the off-road focused, install a disconnect system so you can run stock or upgraded sway bars as needed. Dial In the Details:Bump stop extensions, control arm upgrades, and air-assist systems can fine-tune for specific uses and payloads. Real-World Example: Why Just Upgrading Shocks Isn’t Enough Say you install amazing shocks but ignore collapsed, overloaded stock springs. Your new dampers are fighting a losing battle: no travel left, constantly bottomed out, poor ride and little handling improvement. Conversely, matching new leaf or coil springs to your van’s build brings your chassis back to designed ride height and function—then you can let upgraded shocks do their job. Bulletproof Your Adventure: Why Pro-Level Suspension Pays Off Investing in the right suspension upgrades ensures: Comfort on Highway: Stable, controlled ride—less fatigue, less sway. Confidence Off-Road: Articulation and traction when you need it most. Gear Protection: Less jarring for everything inside your van. Long-Term Reliability: Reduce wear on components, bushings, and body. At Owl, we’ve tested every setup in the real world—from Moab slickrock to Baja washboards. We only offer the proven hardware that delivers. Conclusion: Upgrade Smarter, Adventure Harder Your Sprinter suspension isn’t just “good enough” or “fine for now”—it’s a foundational system that makes or breaks your driving experience. If you’re building out your van, loading for long trips, or chasing challenging terrain, addressing your springs, shocks, and sway bars is a must.

We’ve put thousands of miles over all kinds of terrain. We get this question constantly: Why should I put my spare tire on the back door, and not underneath where the factory mounts it? The answer is rooted in technical realities, practical experience, and a deep understanding of what true off-roading demands. Factory Undercarriage Mount: Adequate for City Drivers—but Not for Off-Road Travelers The stock location for your spare—underneath the van—works just fine for those sticking to paved roads. If your van only sees highway commutes, then keeping your spare tire below is convenient and out of sight. But the equation changes the moment you crave real trail time: Off-roading means unpredictable conditions: Ruts, mud, rocks, inclines, and obstacles demand every inch of clearance and every bit of preparation. Trail repairs aren’t like driveway maintenance: The logistics of changing a tire in your driveway versus the mud and slope of a trail are worlds apart. Here’s Why Rear Door Tire Carriers Win Every Time 1. Full-Size Spare Readiness Hard-packed trails, sharp rocks, muddy ruts—these elements are notorious for chewing up smaller tires. Aftermarket wheels and tires are popular upgrades for adventure vans, but a full-size spare becomes essential if you upgrade your rig. Undercarriage space is limited. Squeezing a larger, full-size tire underneath requires mounting kits at best—and serious muscle and luck if you need to dismount it on the trail. Easy access matters. When you’re stuck on a rocky shelf or knee-deep in mud, having your full-size spare securely—and accessibly—mounted to the back is invaluable. 2. Safety: Clearances and Trail Hazards Undercarriage vulnerability: The lowest point on your van—often the rear diff sitting about two inches from the dirt—leaves little room to crawl underneath, especially if the ground isn’t flat and dry. Mud & Rain: After a downpour, you’ll be crawling in the mud to access that spare, putting yourself in an uncomfortable (and potentially dangerous) spot. Unstable Setups: Trying to jack up a van on muddy or uneven surfaces can cause the jack to sink or slip—a serious safety hazard if you’re working underneath. 3. Off-Grid Problem Solving: Tire Pressure and Bead Issues On-trail fixes: Reseating a bead without professional equipment is tough, even for seasoned pros. Access to a full-size, trail-ready spare allows you to get moving again without fuss. Under-mount limitations: Wrestling that tire cage open, especially if it won’t drop due to mud, rocks, or an awkward angle, may be impossible on the trail. 4. Protection from Damage Rock strikes: Exposed spares under your van are vulnerable to damage from sharp rocks. One unseen puncture to a sidewall can doom your spare—sometimes without you even realizing it, until it’s too late. Mud and debris: An undercarriage tire accumulates grime, which can make removal messy and difficult just when you need the spare most. 5. Trail-Ready Convenience and Time Savings Fast changes: A rear door mount makes tire changes quick and manageable, without crawling or improvising jacks on uneven ground. No surprises: Visual checks are easy—just a quick walkaround at your campsite or before hitting the next trail segment. Why the Rear Door Wins for Safety, Access, and Confidence When building out your ultimate adventure van—deciding where to mount your spare tire is more than a cosmetic choice. Choosing between the standard undercarriage mount and a rear door carrier can make the difference between a smooth trail fix and a backcountry headache. Moving your spare to the rear door is all about about real-world readiness. Key advantages: Maximizes ground clearance Keeps you, and your recovery partners, out of unsafe positions under the van Shields the spare from trail damage and unexpected failures Speeds up repairs so you’re back on the road sooner Ready to Upgrade? Don’t Wait Until the Next Flat If you’re still running the factory under-mount spare, ask yourself: would you bet your next off-grid journey on awkward recoveries, cramped clearances, or a tire that’s already been sliced by an unseen rock? True adventure means preparation—and nothing says prepared like easy-access, real-deal spares on your rig. Sprinter Tire Carrier + Ladder : Explorer (2019+)